(Just kidding. She’s not having anything!)
I recently finished White Truffles in Winter, a fiction of the life of Auguste Escoffier, the Belle Epoque chef who was instrumental in creating and standardizing the French gourmet cooking we fantasize about. Or rather, it’s a fiction of the loves between Escoffier and wife, Escoffier and Sarah Bernhardt, and a few other love-challenged people. The story is a little meandering and very sad – which is appropriate enough, as much of the book is a remembrance of Chef and Madame Escoffier shortly before both die from the infirmities and indignities of old age. (Hence “winter.”) But there are also truly lush, opulent passages describing parades of fine food, the flamboyant excesses of Sarah Bernhardt and other wealthy hotel denizens. There are haunting recollections of historic tragedies, and equally haunting consideration or and love, which in this novel is complex and grand and mundane and always a little tragic.
Overall, I dug it. But this post is not about that.
This is a novel with a lot of sexiness in it. Characters are perpetually being overcome by the deliciousness of their food, cooking together in tiny kitchens crackling with sexy energy, inviting one another to taste this and close their eyes and enjoy it. But the sex scenes themselves – of which there are few, and they might be more appropriately called pre-sex scenes – were somewhat off-putting to me. No, wait, actually they were pretty delicious. Escoffier’s first and hard-won tryst with Sarah Bernhardt involves feeding her spoonfuls of cavier that he’d dolloped with fine sauces on her own belly. Later on, he arranges another woman on a bed strewn with rose petals…. and then encourages her to fall asleep there, as he gets up and writes down a recipe for a pristine white dessert.
Basically, he does not have sex with these women in the narrative. He plates them.
To be fair, this is not true of all of the women in the story. There are no scenes of Escoffier plating his wife; their chemistry is mostly played out in sparring conversation, and then the scene fades to black before we can see that she’s his equal elsewhere too (although it is implied). Another female character is suggested to be sexually assertive, but it is only a suggestion. So there is not really enough to counterbalance the strangely passive, inert bodies of women who are forthright and commanding elsewhere in the novel. (Sarah Bernhardt! Come on!)
When I realized this – and it took me a little while, since the writing is very seductive, but once I saw it I could not un-see it – I was reminded of something else I didn’t like about the thoroughly annoying book I lambasted in the post below: The Marriage Plot, by Jeffrey Eugenides. I wouldn’t say that the main female character of that book was entirely sexually passive, but it’s like her sexual agency is not something the author knows how to write about. The narrative says that one of her early college romances is driven by sexual desire, but we don’t really see that in her actions. What we do see is Madeleine fumbling when asked what her sexual fantasies are, and coming up with “being pampered.” (In other words, plated: washed, moisturized, arranged.) In fact, both of the fantasies she discloses involve her playing a passive role; her partner’s fantasy, too, involves her being inactive. (“Sleeping beauty,” in the book’s words.)
Writer-friends, don’t do this. I’m not saying women should never, ever be written as sexually passive. I’m just saying I’m beyond bored with it. Try to imagine something else, okay?